Seagate Portable 2TB External Hard Drive HDD — USB 3.0 for PC, Mac, PlayStation, & Xbox -1-Year Rescue Service (STGX2000400)

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  • Easily store and access 2TB to content on the go with the Seagate Portable Drive, a USB external hard drive
  • Designed to work with Windows or Mac computers, this external hard drive makes backup a snap just drag and drop
  • To get set up, connect the portable hard drive to a computer for automatic recognition no software required
  • This USB drive provides plug and play simplicity with the included 18 inch USB 3.0 cable
Last updated on 29 марта, 2023 18:36 Details
Seagate Portable 2TB External Hard Drive HDD — USB 3.0 for PC, Mac, PlayStation, & Xbox -1-Year Rescue Service (STGX2000400)
Seagate Portable 2TB External Hard Drive HDD — USB 3.0 for PC, Mac, PlayStation, & Xbox -1-Year Rescue Service (STGX2000400)



Specification: Seagate Portable 2TB External Hard Drive HDD — USB 3.0 for PC, Mac, PlayStation, & Xbox -1-Year Rescue Service (STGX2000400)

Hard Drive

‎2 TB Mechanical Hard Disk




‎Basic Portable Drive

Item model number


Hardware Platform

‎PC, Mac

Operating System

‎Windows®10, Windows 8, Windows 9

Item Weight

‎6.7 ounces

Product Dimensions

‎4.6 x 3.15 x 0.58 inches

Item Dimensions LxWxH

‎4.6 x 3.15 x 0.58 inches



Flash Memory Size




Is Discontinued By Manufacturer


Date First Available

‎July 3, 2018

Отзывы (9)

9 reviews for Seagate Portable 2TB External Hard Drive HDD — USB 3.0 for PC, Mac, PlayStation, & Xbox -1-Year Rescue Service (STGX2000400)

3.8 out of 5
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  1. rbpeirce

    I have about six of these and needed another. I’ve never had a problem with any of them which is sort of surprising. I would have expected at least one to fail but all are well out of warranty with no problems.

    I believe they come formatted for Windows but it is trivial to reformat them on a Mac. I now use APFS and have only partitioned two for Time Machine. Otherwise I use containers instead of partitioning.

    I had an old Drobo S that failed and I replaced it with two of these. One is the operating unit and the other is the backup.

    They are really impossible to beat at the price. Even if one should fail you just throw it away and buy another.

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  2. UN in CA

    These perform ok, until they are about half full, then they start shingling the information (SMR), and performance just goes through the floor. This is due to it reading data, so that it can write the new data, with the existing data.

    Basically in laymens terms, these seem great for ~3tb, once you fill it past there, write speeds go from 100+mb/s to <1-2mb/s after the buffer fills up.

    I copied 60gb of home videos to it once it reached 50% filled, and its now at 6 hours of copying. Worse still it causes the entire computer to hang, as it has no idea why the drive just stops responding.

    Avoid these smr drives, they’re junk.

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  3. CdnHockeyDude

    There does seem to be quite a few negative reviews for Segate drives in general here.

    I have no connection with Segate nor any other vested interest, but I would say I’ve had literally dozens of their drives over the years and only ever had one failure.

    Also worth pointing out that almost every other make and model have similar comments, if not quite as many. I guess people are more likely to post negative comments when they have suffered a failure of some kind?

    More recently, I’ve been using these 2.5″ USB 5TB drives for video library use. They don’t get hammered, but do cope perfectly well for this fairly demanding use.

    No storage device is ever 100% reliable nor lasts forever. So, whilst I do sympathise with those folk who have lost valuable data, I would always advocate BACKUP, BACKUP and BACKUP!

    Generally, have AT LEAST one copy of everything, preferably kept in another physical location. That way, when the inevitable eventually happens, you won’t get that deep sick feeling that all your important data is lost forever.

    I will keep buying these 2.5″ USB3 drives as they are compact, fast (for my use) and cheap enough to have another one elsewhere as backup.

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  4. J. Zahn

    I purchased this harddrive to backup my other harddrives. It just crashed on me & I am currently on the phone trying about to be charged thousands of dollars to get data recovery on something I haven’t even had for 6 months. DO NOT PURCHASE. Its cheap & faulty. Horrible quality and very sensitive. I did not drop it anywhere or damage it in any way. It just sat on my desk.

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  5. Kai Tiura

    At a point I was going to purchase my 3rd SSD external drive, the limited capacity & high cost got me thinking a better idea would be to purchase a larger capacity HDD for archives stored at home and use my SSDs for short-term storage on the go (mainly used as working scratch drives an Time Machine backups). Turned out to be a good idea. I am now on by second 5TB Seagate drive & still using the same 2 Samsung T5 SDDs, these drive are economical, reliable and fast enough that transfers to/from SSD are quick enough. I can’t rate the tech support because I haven’t needed any, just formatted as encrypted drives and run with it.

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  6. Jean-Alexandre L.

    The drive works as intended. When I checked on the warranty, it is only warranted until January 2020 (Bought late July 2019) — Just a little shy of 6 months. Be wary with drives purchased from Amazon — they are generally OEM products and don’t carry the full warranty as do retail products (That is why the prices are generally lower here and more expensive when you check at Staples or Best Buy, etc. — OEM products cost less because the retailer generally takes care of warranty issues). Not sure if Amazon will carry the warranty as I haven’t yet had an issue.

    That being said, I have used many many drives and I’ve never had to return a Seagate drive for warranty. They are dependable long-term and it’s usually the brand I edge toward. I have Seagate drives that are well out of warranty that I use on a daily basis (one is almost 10 years old).

    This drive series can be disassembled — the drive has a regular SATA connector, not hard wired to be a USB only drive.

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  7. Sunny Chen

    This review is for the Seagate Expansion 16TB External Hard Drive HDD — USB 3.0

    There’s nothing special about it. It’s just an external disk. They will either fail in the beginning or last a long time. I’m still burning it in and so far so good.

    I’ve been buying Seagate over the years because they included Paragon NTFS for Seagate, making it useful for Macs too. I didn’t actually pay attention if this one had it before I wiped it, since I already had Paragon on Mac. I think you can get it from Seagate’s web site if you hadn’t installed it yet. I usually just attach it to one system these days, usually Windows, and share it to the others.

    I just leave it as NTFS, since it’s a much better file system and more useful, since it can hold Mac files, including old files with Resource Forks, without needing them to be zipped up. The NTFS versions also cheaper than the Mac formatted versions. If you really need it to be Mac, just reformat it on a Mac. The only really bad Seagate disks, so far, were those old 1.5TB and 3TB batches. But most of the other sizes have been reliable. I just buy the cheapest one per TB at the time of purchase for my home backup. My previous one was a Western Digital 12TB, and the one before that was a Seagate. it’s whatever was cheapest at the time.

    I generally buy single disks for backups, because they’re much easier. It’s also much cheaper than RAID and less overall maintenance for my needs. I usually buy a new single disk about once every 3 years +/- and start copying my previous disk contents to it and keep the old disks as backups. That way I don’t lose data if one disk fails. Long ago, you needed to do that every 3-5 years before a disk actually fails. These days, they’re lasting longer than the typical 3-5 years because they go into sleep mode when not in use. I’ve had older disks under 750GB fail on me, but other than a 1.5TB Seagate, I haven’t had these disk fail in a long time. My 2 TB Seagate is still running fine. Of course, these are basically low use backup now.

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  8. Buzz Lightyear

    NB : commentaire extrêmement détaillé rédigé spécifiquement de la manière la plus compréhensible possible pour les utilisateurs novices de MacBooks (Apple). Il n y a rien de mal a être débutant et de vouloir comprendre ce que l’on achète, bien au contraire ! J’apporte donc ma modeste pierre à l’édifice 🙂
    Utilisé sur un MacBook Pro 2021 (M1 pro / 16gb RAM / 1TO SSD). J’ai longtemps hésité avec un autre disque dur spécialement dédié pour Mac et finalement j’ai choisi celui-ci vu le faible cout. Le seul avantage du disque dur dédié pour Mac (je ne cite pas de marque…) est la connectique (USB-C vers USB-C, donc vraiment dédiée pour les derniers Macs), ce qui ne le rend pas plus rapide pour autant. Un disque dur mécanique reste un disque dure mécanique.
    Pour ceux qui se posent des questions, la connectique très bizarre présente sur ce disque dur Seagate est ce que l’on appelle «USB micro B». Ne pas confondre avec l’usb «micro», ou l’USB «type B» (utilisé le plus souvent sur les imprimantes où sur les instruments de musique «MIDI»).
    Dans la boite, le disque dure est livré avec un cable USB 3.0 (= USB A, USB classique qu’on connait depuis des générations d’ordinateurs) vers ce fameux «USB micro B». Ce cable suffira pour la plupart des PC classiques, qui possèdent un port USB A (2.0 ou 3.0 peut importe, ils sont compatible l’un avec l’autre et tout ce qui change c’est la vitesse de transfert maximale atteignable).
    Les derniers MacBook en revanche ne possèdent pas de ports USB A depuis des années, car Apple a fait le choix d’utiliser l’USB-C Thunderbolt, qui possède l’avantage d’être plus petit, extrêmement plus rapide et de pouvoir être branché dans n’importe-quel sens. Dans ce cas, avec le cable fourni dans la boite vous serez coincé et ne pourrez pas connecter le disque dur externe à votre MacBook. Mais pas de panique, il existe deux solution très peu couteuses :
    1) Soit vous utilisez le cable d’origine vendu avec le disque dur, et vous utilisez un adaptateur USB 3.0 femelle vers USB-C mâle pour pouvoir connecter l’extrémité du cable à votre Mac. Il en existe tout une flopée sur Amzon vendus de 5 à 7 euros, et souvent vous en avez 2 ou 3 dans la boite !
    2) Soit vous achetez un cable USB micro B mâle vers USB-C mâle. Ça coute en général à peu près 8 euros sur Amazon selon la marque, et souvent il est bien précisé dans la description que ce sont des cables pour les disque durs de différentes marques et souvent il citent le nom de seagate, comme ça on est sûr de pas se tromper.
    La deus options ont leurs avantages. Avec les adaptateurs, au moins ça vous fait aussi des adaptateurs pour brancher des clés usb «classiques» sur votre Mac. Avec le cable, au moins vous pouvez toujours le laisser branché au disque dur qui est constamment prêt à être branché «naturellement» au port disponible sur votre Mac, sans vous poser de question. Moi j’ai choisi les 2 options. J’ai pris des adaptateurs pour brancher des clés USB classiques à mon Mac si besoin, et j’ai pris un cable à 8 euros que je laisse toujours branché au disque dur qui est toujours prêt à être connecté de façon «naturelle» au Mac.
    Aussi, autre précision, il vous faudra formater le disque dur au format d’Apple à savoir APFS (VS exFAT pour les disque dur windows). Pour cela pas de panique, c’est extrêmement simple. Si vous n’êtes pas doués en informatique regardez sur YouTube, il existe des tas de vidéos explicatives, ça se fait en littéralement 1 à 2 minutes. Il suffit de lancer l’application «Utilitaire de disque» présente nativement sur tous les Mac (par exemple en lançant spotlight via la recousit «command+espace» (vous appuyez sur les deux touches en même temps), là une barre de recherche apparait et vous tapez «Utilitaire» et appuyez sur la touche entré (il y a fort à parier qu’utilitaire de disque soit l’application qui apparaissent en premier). De là vous arrivez dans l’application Utilitaire de disque. Sur la barre latérale gauche, vous cherchez la section «externe» et en dessous vous devriez voir apparaitre votre nouveau disque (si c’est le seul disque externe que vous avez branché, il n y aura qu’une seule option, donc aucun risque de se tromper). Vous cliquez dessus. Pour vérifier que vous avez sélectionné le bon disque, vous verrez s’afficher la capacité du disque. Si vous avec acheté le modèle 5TO, utilitaire de disque vous indiquera qu’il s’agit d’un disque qui pèse effectivement 5TO. De là, dans la partie supérieure droite du programme, de droite à gauche vous observerez plusieurs options. Généralement «+/- volume», «S.O.S», «Partitionner», «effacer», et d’autres options… C’est sur le bouton «Effacer» que vous devez cliquer. Là une nouvelle fenêtre va apparaitre, il vous demandera de donner un nom à votre disque (vous pouvez donner le nom que vous voulez à votre disque dur, par exemple «disque dur de untel» en fonction de votre prénom, où «untel HD» pour abréger (HD signifiant hard drive = disque dur en anglais), et ensuite sur l’option du dessous il vous demande de sélectionner le «format» dans lequel le disque va être formaté. Il existe plusieurs options, mais celle qui est généralement pré-sélectionnée et préconisée par Apple est APFS. Inutile de rentrer dans des complications telles que APFS chiffré, ou APFS sensible à la case, APFS simple suffit largement pour la plupart des usages. Une fois qu’APFS est bien sélectionné (encore une fois, en général c’est ce qui est pré-sélectionné depuis le début), vous n’avez plus qu’à cliquer sur le bouton «effacer» juste en dessous et attendre. En général, surtout sur les nouveau Mac à Puce M1 ou autre puce Apple silicon, ça va très vite. Un message de succès apparaitra et c’est terminé. Vous pouvez fermer utilitaire de disque et votre disque dur est prêt à être utilisé. Attention à bien éjecter le disque à la fin de son utilisation, juste avant de le débrancher. Pour se faire, soit vous double-cliquez (en appuyant avec deux doigts sur le trackpad) sur l’icône du disque dur qui apparait sur le bureau et vous cliquez sur «éjecter le disque», soit vous appuyez sur la petite icône «bizarre» figurant à droite du nom de votre disque dans la bare latérale gauche de finder. Cette icône signifie aussi «éjecter». Vous attendez que le disque disparaisse soit du bureau soit de la barre latérale gauche du finder et alors vous pouvez déconnecter le disque en toute sécurité.
    Moi avec BlackMagic et AmorphousDiskMark je mesure des vitesses de lecture/écriture aux alentours des 120 mb/s. Ça n’est pas du SSD et encore moins du SSD thunderbolt, mais c’est une vitesse tout à fait classique est honorable pour un disque dur classique.
    Encore une fois, malheureusement encore en 2022, entre l’espace de stockage et la vitesse, il faut choisir. Mais un SSD externe (plus rapide) de 2 TO (moins de la moitié d’espace de stockageà coute plus de 200 euros, soit plus de 2 fois le prix pour plus de 2 fois moins d’espace de stockage. Et un SSD thunderbolt extrêmement rapide de 4TB ( donc un peu moins de stockage) coute… quasiment 1000 euros. Donc mois je m’en sors bien avec mes 1TB de stackage interne à 6 GB/S, un SSD thunderbolt à 2,5 GB/S en lecture/écriture que j’avais payé aux alentours de 250 euros + ce disque seagate 5TO pour le stockage de masse.
    Donc je recommande, il s’agit d’un disque tout à fait honorable pour le stockage de masse. L’un (si pas le ) meilleurs rapport qualité/prix pour ce type de stockage. Et comme je l’ai expliqué dans ce looooong commentaire, aucun soucis pour l’utilisation avec un MacBook modene à condition d’acheter en plus un petit accessoire de 4 à 8 euros.

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  9. Kai Tiura

    I’m writing this because of all the reviews I see complaining about the drive not showing up on their computer initially, saying «it doesn’t work right out of the box!» I often wonder if some of these people never even read the documentation before giving up. The included documentation for the drives is horrible, with only a Quick Start page that shows how to plug it in, but there is great info on Seagate’s site that helps if you go look at it. There’s also something else I found out that might be helpful, and I’ll address that here. Once I’ve had it in use for a while I’ll update this review for a more in-depth account of how well it works. I’ll list my comments by issue:

    1) Drive not getting recognized.
    After seeing so many «it doesn’t show up» comments, I was concerned when mine didn’t show up on my iMac either. I followed the instructions on plugging it in (in sequence, which may or may not make a difference, but you gotta do it correctly just in case), and the first thing you have to do is decide which US Standard plug to slide onto the universal plug adapter; there are two that are almost identical, two-prong plugs; one has holes in the prongs and the other doesn’t. Docs say nothing about which to use, so I went with the one with holes.

    The unit powered up and sounded like it was initializing, but it wouldn’t get recognized by my Late 2017 iMac. Unplugging and restarting did nothing. I went to the online documentation and did the recommended check to see if Show Hard Drives was checked in Finder/Preferences/Show-Hard Drives. It was (which I already knew because my others show there, but just in case I needed to recycle the command…). That did no good. After a bit of thought, I decided I’d try the other plug, and that did the trick. USE THE PLUG WITH NO HOLES IN IT if using in the US!

    Once that was solved, it showed up and all looked good.

    2) Using with Time Machine on Mac.
    The info in the product description says the drive is ready to use with Time Machine, preformatted. The problem is, if you have Catalina or later, there is a new formatting called APFS that replaces xFat, and you will have to reformat to use with Time Machine. This is a simple process using Disc Utility, and it reformats quickly.

    Once I had that issue solved, I got Carbon Copy Cloner (trial version) and set up the tasks of copying my main hard drive (348.3 GB) and my 8 TB external drive to the new Seagate drive and let it go. The main drive was backed up in just over 47 minutes. Yeah, it’s a tad noisy, but nothing that can’t go on while working on the computer by any means unless you’re maybe recording a YouTube video at the computer or something.

    The external drive, which had 6.58 TB of stuff on it took a little longer… 12 1/2 hours to be exact. Slow? I don’t know, it’s the first time I’ve copied a hard drive with that much stuff on it, but I set the task and left it alone and it was done in the morning. The image included here shows Carbon Copy’s review page for the performed tasks.
    CAVIAT: you may need to use a program that allows the computer to work without shutting down after a period of inactivity. I use an app called «Amphetemine», which forces the computer to stay on in various circumstances that you can set. I set mine to remain on «as long as specified app is working» and chose Carbon Copy Cloner. Not sure you have to do this, but Amphetamine is a great app and I didn’t want to take the chance of having to start over, so I used it, and it worked great.

    The noise some complain about could be other drives (I have the 12 TB version for desktop) or it may be a personal preference, but a drive in a plastic case like this with lots of air holes in it will make some noise, however I didn’t find this «noisy» at all IMHO.

    So far, I’m impressed with Carbon Copy as well, but like the drive, I’m in my infancy with using it, so time will tell. I also have a 1 TB external I use for Time Machine, so instead of using this one for that, I will most likely also set up the drive to copy that drive so I have a backup of my Time Machine just in case. You can set Carbon Copy to copy whenever it detects a change in a drive, so once the initial copying is done, the lengthy copies are done, and it’s only copying when things change.

    If you have issues with one of these drives not being recognized by your computer straight out of the box, FIRST make sure you have the correct US plug installed. THEN, make sure to reformat to APFS if you’re running Catalina or later if you plan to use it for your Time Machine backups. At that point, so far in my experience, it’s a great drive. I’m giving four stars only because of having to hunt down good documentation for the actually necessity for reformatting for the OSs, and for having NO information about the right plug to use. NO idea why the one with holes won’t work, but it would be nice if they gave a heads-up on that.

    Once it’s been working a while, I’ll readdress this review.

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